– One Room Challenge – Week One
Do It Yourself Shiplap
I am loving this challenge so far, because it keeps me on a schedule and pushes me to get things done. I am good with a schedule! Continue to check out all the guests for the One Room Challenge here as well as the 20 influencers participating – its amazing!
Here’s my 6 week outline:
Project One – Shiplap
Project Two – Window Valences
Project Three – Custom Shutters
Project Four – Blinds
Project Five – Decorating
As you know I am working on my living room for this challenge and giving it a facelift. This is my before:
So this last week I created my design through sketch to visualize what I wanted to have happen (you can read last weeks post here to see all my plans!). Just a ruler and pencil is all you need!
My base change of the room is shiplap. Thanks to Jo Jo we are all loving this stuff. I have written an in depth tutorial on shiplap here that is a good resource if you haven’t worked with it before. This time around I tried some new these that I will share.
Step One – Measure
You will want to measure how much shiplap boards you will need. You do this by taking the area of the wall and subtracting spaces that will not be used (windows and fireplace in my case). You can use a measuring tape or a laser measure. I used a laser measure because my room was so big and I was doing it alone.
I love this one from TACKlife. It is super easy to use and inexpensive, it’s the TACKLife S2-40M Laser Measure and you can order it here from Amazon for $29.
I wasn’t sure how to best get started and learned from a great YouTube tutorial here from TheMrFinneth – it was very helpful.
This laser measure helped me measure the area of the room, windows and fireplace. My total needed square feet was almost 80 square feet.
Note: I partnered with TACKlife and HomeRight for this project and loved their products. These are not affiliate links that I share today, just links for my followers to buy the products if they need them. \
Step Two – Purchase Shiplap
Instead of using a plywood board that is ripped (cut) into 6 inch strips, I opted to use the pre-cut MDF shiplap at The Home Depot this time. The price was not much different and since it was already primed I liked the idea. It is heavier to work with though (just beware.) It cost me $100 for the amount that I needed.
They also carry Pine Shiplap for a slightly higher price point.
I loaded it up and headed home!
Step Three – Paint First Coat
I always paint my first coat before I mount it. This is optional. I am just not at good painting and I always tape wrong, therefore getting paint on my walls. So painting first is my option. I will add another coat when it is up on the wall, but it is not as detailed.
I used a spray gun for this part and I LOVED IT. These tools are not that expensive and are so handy. I partnered with HomeRight and tried their HomeRight Super Finish Max Extra C800971 Paint Sprayer, that you can purchase here from Amazon for $99.
You have to add water to your paint (I used Sherman Williams that was mixed especially to match my baseboards) according to the directions. I sprayed outside and let fully dry before bringing into the house.
Step Four – Finding Studs
You will measure for your studs using a stud finder and mark them throughout the entire wall. Then will make lines connecting the marks vertical so you can see where each stud is as you nail. This can be done with a chalk line or a laser level.
I used the Zircon Stud Finder that you can buy here and it works well for only $12!
Then I connect the marks I made using my TACKlife Laser Level. This is a great cross line laser tool that you can purchase here.
Using a tripod I was able to keep my line steady and match it up to the marks so I could draw a line. Once all the studs were found I was ready to add my boards.
Step Five – Mount Your Shiplap
Here I used my Ridgid Nail Gun and air compressor. Here is how to load your gun:
Now charger your compressor and get ready to nail! You will have to make sure that you are not following the line of your ceiling because that isn’t always straight. Here again you will use the Laser Level to help you stay accurate. You will need your circular handsaw to make the measured cuts. Generally you will stag your boards like this:
You will use a jigsaw to work your way around the not so straight spaces. Make sure to be VERY careful around the light switches when you have the plate removed. I would recommend turning off the power to that area to be fully safe.
This space was SO HARD. I cut it a zillion times.
It took me 3 days to get the shiplap done, and I worked about 3-4 hours day. I can’t wait to get painting!
Step Six – Spakling
Here is a video I made of what I use for spakling, how I did it and how to clean it off. Basically you add your spakling, let dry, and sand off!
Once this space is ready you will get all the painting done.
So it has been a successful week! Can’t wait to start working on my window valences now – stay tuned…