Ready to make a super easy cake plate for the holidays? Or even just for a fun display decoration? They are so simple and inexpensive – check out my 60 second video tutorial and then pin it for later when your ready to make yours!
Do It Yourself Bracket Shelf
Recently I wanted to create a super easy shelf with inexpensive materials – wood and brackets. Let’s see what I came up with!
Simple Plant Wall Hooks
I was needing some space in my office to hang these darling plants from TJ Max. But I didn’t want to spend any money on them. So I rummaged through my box of “extra stuff” to see what caught my eye. That is how the Simple Plant Wall Hook came to be! If you do not need this now, pin it for later on Pinterest and follow along with all my pins here.
Farmhouse Framed Prints
Last year I was crushing over all the Farmhouse Prints – so I started wondering how I could make my own with the resources I had (long vinyl cutter, no large printers). After a bit of thinking I created a way that worked in my budget and was super easy to do.Here is my DIY Video Tutorial for you to watch to get the basic idea:
Do It Yourself – Farmhouse Sign
Make this sign in 7 simple steps, come join me!
Ever since I started documenting my home decor journey I have been crushin on all these farmhouse signs. You can pay to get one made, and often they aren’t cheap. But if you don’t have the time and you do have the money – go for it! If you want to try and make one yourself, check out this process that is SUPER easy and SUPER inexpensive (under $20!!!). The only downside? It does take your time. But if you turn on some tunes or your favorite book and get to work, you mind find out how much you enjoy this kind of thing.
Check out my 60 second DIY Farmhouse Sign tutorial and then follow along for all the details!
- 1×10 wood board: 4-8 feet long, depending on how many letters you are using
- Stain (I like Minwax Provincial or Walnut)
- White Paint (I use Behr Paint and Primer)
- Paint and staining brush
- Modge Podge
- Mirror image prints
- Frosting knife (or any tool with a rounded edge)
- Corner brackets (optional)
Step One – Stain Your Wood
I chose not to sand down my piece of wood because I wanted it rustic. Feel free to sand your edges before staining if you would like them softer. Grab your stain, darker is better. It will show through the chippy paint areas. I added Weathered Oak first, let dry, then add Provincial around the edges for some darker spots. This isn’t necessary.
P.S. Forgive my grainy photos! I only video taped this DIY and had to take stills from the movie!
Step Two – Add Vaseline
Lets learn how to achieve the chippy look. I have a detailed blog post here on how to achieve the distressed look using wax as well.
Take your vaseline and rub it lightly onto the edges and corners of your board. Miss some spots on purpose. Then add some in sporadic spots on your board. The more you use the more of the stain will show through for your outcome.
Step Three – Paint Your Wood
Add a layer of white paint (or any color your prefer) to your board. It doesn’t have to be super covered well, just “good enough.” I use Behr Paint and Primer – I love it for the chippy look! Let fully dry before the next step.
Step Four – Print & Cut Your Words
This part is a little tricky if you do not know how to print mirror image. Depending on the computer you have, it can be different for each. Here is a link to teach you:
Type out your word and mess with the fonts. I really like Bordeaux Roman Bold LET for my signs. You can fit about 3 letters per sheet if you use the 800 size. If you don’t have that font you can download it here.
Make sure you fiddle with it on your board to make sure it fits before the next step, which is cutting the letters. You will cut as close to the edge as possible, keeping letters connected if you can. This helps the placement goes smoother.
Step Five – Glue Your Letters
You will dip your brush into the modge podge and gentle wipe ON THE INK SIDE of the first set of letters you are going to lay down. Be gentle so you don’t rip your letters. You have to take special care when laying them down because they are sticky. You will only have a few seconds to move them around if you need before the glue thickens up. I had a measuring tape to make sure the top and bottom spacing were the same.
Also make sure to get glue over the entire letter. Every bit of ink must have glue on it to adhere well to the board.
You will press the letters fully onto the board to make sure no bubbles are left behind. Let dry completely according to directions before moving on to the next step.
Step Six – Remove Paper
Here is the fun part! Grab a rag and get it pretty wet. Not dripping, but still really moist. Gently press it onto all of your letters, one at a time. This will start the process and help with removal.
Once that is done, head back to the first letter. You will gently and slowly rub the letter to remove the paper. This will leave the ink on the board. If you rub too much the ink will come off too. If you do rub some ink off, just press it back in place. It will dry fine. It’s ok to have some ink rubbed off if you are going for a really rustic look like I was. This process takes time, but is worth it. It’s going to look amazing!
Step Seven – Chip Your Paint
I like to use my frosting knife because it is round but not sharp. You can use any like tool for this. You will take the edge and start LIGHTLY scratching areas of your wood. The edges and around letters are especially good spots. You can also scrape off any extra paper you may have left that needs to be removed. The more you scrape, the more chippy your board will be!
I added metal brackets to my edges for a more complete look. You can find these in the knob and drawer handle isle at Home Depot! Spray paint the color you want and drill them on.
Your all done! Such a fun sign for a great price point. Let us know how yours turns out!
One Room Challenge – Week Three
So, the One Room Challenge Reveal is in TWO DAYS and I haven’t shared my updates! So I am going to share my farmhouse shutters today, my blinds tomorrow and my reveal on Thursday – here we go! As always, check out the other amazing ladies here who are participating on the Spring 2018 One Room Challenge with me!
Here’s my 6 week outline:
Project One – Shiplap COST $92.00 Read all about that project here Project Two – Window Valences COST $45.00 Read all about that project here Project Three – Custom Shutters COST $15.00
Project Four – Blinds
Project Five – Decorating
DIY VIDEO TUTORIAL
Here is my 60 second video tutorial on how to make the farmhouse shutters on your own. Then follow along for all the extra details below!
– One Room Challenge – Week Two –
I am loving this challenge still! My project this week was to create wood valances for my window treatments. So come follow along as I show you how to do it too! Make sure you check out all the ladies in this challenge over at OneRoomChallenge.com for lots of inspiration. You will love what these designers are coming up with!
Do It Yourself Wood Valance in 10 Steps
Here’s my 6 week outline:
Project One – Shiplap COST $92.00 Project Two – Window Valences COST $45.00
Project Three – Custom Shutters
Project Four – Blinds
Project Five – Decorating
I will give you a quick review of what the first three weeks have looked like:
Week One: Empty Walls (see the beginning of our journey here)
Week Two: Add Shiplap (read all about it here)
Week Three: Add Wood Valances
Ready to learn how to get it done?! Here we go:
- 1×6 Board (two 6-8 feet long)
- 1×4 Board (one 6-8 feet long)
- 1×3 Board (one 6-8 feet long)
- Stain or Paint
- Paint Brush and old rags
- Two Curtain Rods
- Screws (1 1/2 inch)
- Kreg Screws (1 1/2 inch)
- 3 1/2 inch wood screws (I use hex head screws)
- Circular Hand Saw
- Cordless Drill
- Kreg Jig (read all about them here and how to use them!)
Here is my 60 second Do It Yourself Video Tutorial so you can get a quick glimpse of how it is to be done!
Step One – Measure Your Windows
Each window is different so I will not be giving you the measurements of my window. But you will understand the measurements you will need create your valance.
- You will need to take the measurement of the window opening and add 2 inches to each side.
- The curtain rods are about 3 1/2 inches deep, so you will plan on 4 1/2 inches on each side of the valance.
Step Two – Buy Your Wood and Rods
Head over to Home Depot to grab your wood. You can find curtain rods there as well, Walmart or order them on amazon. Make sure you grab 2 and that they are the length you need.
Step Three – Cut Your Wood
Grab your circular saw and some saw horses or a table. Make sure you lines are as straight as possible (this is my weakness!).
- You will cut one of the 1×6 pieces to the length of your window plus the 2 inches on each side. Cut two of these.
- Length of Window + 2 inches = FIRST CUT (2)
- You will measure the width of your rod – add this measurement plus 1.5 inches. You will make 4 cuts of this measurement using 1×6 pieces.
- Width of rod + 1.5 inches = SECOND CUT (4)
- You will measure the length of your first cut MINUS 1.5 inches (you are going to add this as your top piece and it fits in between the two side brackets of wood – hence the minus 1/5 inches).
- Length of first cut – 1.5 inches = THIRD CUT (2)
Step Four – Pocket Holes
If you have never drilled pocket holes before you need to read up on this. It isn’t hard, you just need a small amount of training. Refer to my post here on using a Kreg Jig.
- You will add ZERO pocket holes to your first cut.
- You will add 2 pocket holes to each second cut.
- You will add 3 pocket holes to each third cut.
Step Five – Put Together Your Valance
Add your side braces to your first cut like this:
Then you will add your second piece. This is the top part of your valance and the way you will attach it onto the wall.
Step Six – Sand and Stain
You will sand down your valance and then wipe off any extra sawdust. Pick your stain and get to work.
I first stained with Varathane Briarsmoke and let dry.
I rubbed on a small layer of Beeswax for a distressed look.
Then I painted with a top coat of Behr Paint and Primer – Tan. Once dry, I sanded lightly and this was my outcome (I LOVED IT!):
Step Seven – Mount Your Rod
You will look for the studs and mount your rod brackets there, at the end of each window.
Step Eight – Attach Your Brace
This is the 1×3 wood piece that you will attach your valance too. Find the studs (this is very important for a secure brace) and mount right above your metal bracket for your rod. This is where you use your hex head 3.5 screws. The hex heads give me more grip with my drill. You need this long to go all the way through your 1×3 brace, the sheet rock, and then into the stud. Use a level to make sure its even, your valance will be crooked if this is not straight.
Step Nine – Attach Your Curtains
Slip your curtains onto your rod and attach it to your window. You are almost done!
Step Ten – Mount Your Valance
You will now add your completed valance. You will lay it over the brace and curtain rod. Make sure it is measured even. You will take your screws and add one on the top middle area of the valance, attaching the top piece of wood to your sturdy brace. Then add one to each end of the valance. See the video tutorial for how I did this.
It is all done! Yah! I love the look it gives this room. I found some darling curtains at TJ Max for inexpensive. Now I get to rest for the weekend before I start my shutters!